Cheap and effective solutions for DIY single-ring set-ups. By Josh Patterson. There is an undeniable appeal to a single chainring set up, provided it suits your riding style and terrain. Remove your front shifter, front derailleur and all your geared chain rings. This includes your middle ring if running a triple. Chain retention is the key to creating a reliable single-ring drivetrain and your chainring is your first line of defence again dropped chains.
These are generally referred to as narrow-wide chainrings. Wolf Tooth Components is one of several companies making aftermarket chain rings with alternating width tooth profiles Wolftooth Components.
While not a necessity, rings such as these can reduce the likelihood of dropping a chain. Chainring positioning in important. Try to line up the chainring with the middle of the cassette to minimize the angle between the chain and chainring in the highest and lowest gears. In addition to swapping your chainring, you will likely also need to pick up some shorter chainring bolts. As mentioned above, some set ups may not require a guide at all. If you do find you need additional chain management, a simple upper guide should suffice for cross-country and trail riding.
A simple upper chainguide, such as this MRP 1x, provides enough security for most cross-country and trail riding BikeRadar.
Last and certainly not least, shorten your chain. Failing to remove links will result in excessive chain slap and poor shifting performance. This is to be avoided when running three chainrings, as it can stretch the derailleur to its maximum capacity. Try the following when sizing a chain for your 1x setup: wrap the chain around the chain ring and around the largest cog on the cassette without routing the chain through the rear derailleurbut try adding four links, rather than two.
You can always remove additional links if needed.SRAM were early pioneers of eleven speed, and we instantly fell for the silence, wide gear range, and great chain retention even without a guide and this kit soon earned a place in the Dirt — as it does again this year. The price to join this club was high, and a dedicated XD Driver fitting on the hub was needed adding further to the cost of making the switch to eleven cogs.
SRAM GX main image above appears on many of our favourite bikes but it was the arrival of the new NX transmission earlier this year that caught our attention. Have Sram really killed off the front mech?
This budget SRAM option along with the recently launched and about to become available Shimano SLX eleven speed opens up the doors for upping your cog count on the cheap. With many brands now designing frames around a single-ring-specific transmission, is now the time to make the switch?
These new options, from both SRAM and Shimano use a cassette range that starts with a 11 tooth sprocket instead of a 10 tooth that the Sram transmissions from GX upwards use hence the compatibility only with a standard freehub body. Both SLX and NX offer a cassette in a T range giving you a climbing gear that will get you up most climbs with determination.
A standard rear mech can be pushed beyond its original design parameters too. Until recently the first barrier would be the price.
The finish is naturally less polished and the materials used of a lower cost. The weight is a key issue though and this may well put some off these entry-level groupsets, with the cassette being the main culprit.
A real benefit though is the choice of when it comes to the cranks. With NX you can can choose to go to a mm crank arm length for better ground clearance — now often seen on custom spec enduro race bikes and choose from standard chainrings starting at 28T and through to 40T. Keep smashing or crashing your bike? Bang on an NX rear mech and maybe a GX shifter for a slicker feel and you have a very good value but high performance set up. Weight: g. With the cassette also fitting on a standard freehub body, you can use your regular wheelset and keep costs down, a key benefit to these new groupsets.
Got a second bike sitting idle in the shed? Chances are that this new SLX will fit. The details are good too, the shifter is I-Spec compatible allowing you to attach it to your brake lever for a neater handlebar.
There are two SLX quality 11 speed cassettes available of T which seems anorexic in the age of Sram Eagle or T, with 1x riders able to choose between 30T, 32T or 34T chainrings.
The T cassette weighs grams, which makes it lighter than the NX by 70 grams with a smaller range but far from sprightly.Shimano XT 2x11 to 1x11 conversion. Previous Page Next Page. Post Message. Author Message. Basically you'll pull the small ring off, and then you can replace the remaining ring with whatever size you want from Shimano which only comes down to a It was my understanding that you just need to remove the front mech, swap out both front rigs for a single NW ring, and swap out the rear cassette for a wider range cassette?
RBL wrote: Daft question I'm sure, but what is wrong with 2x11? Why do you want to change? Don't post your bike. Rules on first page. Giant contact dropper post problems 49 mins ago - Aggresive Hardtails Post Em! All rights reserved.
Converting to a 1x11 geartrain
Mobile Version of Website. Posted: Oct 15, at Hey guys. I've only recently got back into the bike scene after a good 10 years out so forgive my stupidity. I've got a Trek Fuel Ex 9. I want to convert to single speed. Am I right in assuming this will be a direct fit and pretty simple swap over?
Will I need spacers or anything? Thanks in advance. Pretty simple yep. Posted: Oct 16, at Also wondering the same thing. Posted: Oct 17, at Daft question I'm sure, but what is wrong with 2x11? RBL wrote:. Posted: Oct 18, at WasabiJim wrote:. Giant contact dropper post problems.Toggle navigation. Categories Discussions Sign in. I plan to convert my Anthem 2 to a 1x11 geartrain.
And then removing the front mech shifter and cables? My current cassette is a SHimano HG50 11x I read in an online guide that it is advisable to remove the 15 or 17 cog, and replace it with a 40t or 42t cog? What are all this options for a shifter?!
Convert to 1x11
Dont know if its medium cage or long cage? Many thanks. The Rookie Posts: 27, April You seem to have read many articles and got the information confused! To go to 1x11 from ten speed will need need shifter, rear mech, cassette and chain as well as the single specific or better still narrow wide chainring, none of the ten speed stuff will work for 1x To go 1x10 you can do by removing just the front shifting and fitting a chainring, if it's not narrow wide you will need a chain guide.
The removing two sprockets and replacing with one is only if you are using 1x10 with an expander ring otherwise you'd end up with 9 gears obviouslyyou can remove either one or better still both and replace with a 16t for better progression through the gears, but you have to start with an XT cassette.
The Rookie wrote:. Superstar chain rings are very good! So, can someone please confirm, before I pull the trigger: I'll get a compatible narrow-wide chain ring, from Superstar or Race Face Remove my exising double chainrings, bolt the new 32t Chainring to my existing SLX crank arms Remove front mech shifter and cables.
Is that it? Any change to my current KMC X10 chain? Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks.
How to Convert to a 1X Drivetrain
Just do it. If your not very fit you'll need a 32, I do, and I'm fairly fit. If your normal rides are flat terrain you'll be ok with a But as you seem to be asking a lot I'd guess not. So I checked Shimano website for specifications of my SLX crankset, and there is a lot of infor there, but can't find my double 10 speed crankset there?
As per Shimano tech docs I suggested checking it's a which is by far and away the most common size. LimitedGarry Posts: Should be the You can verify it yourself by measuring the distance between the middle of the crank and middle of the bolt. You can fit a 30 to a as well I had a ringmaster, not at all impressed. My son who is superfit just went from a shimano triple up front to a 30T with cassette at the back and he says its fine. He's played it safe, but as it's easy enough to swap and add a bigger front instead, it's not a huge risk.
What you're losing is top end speed, but for that read road-type speed.
Plenty fast enough to be going at a decent pace on a flat road on a full suss MTB. For comparison, a 34T front ring would get you to Not a huge difference.Forum Rules.
Remember Me? What's New? Results 1 to 6 of 6. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. So if I wanna go 1x11, is it as easy as buying a 1x-specific chain ring like the Wolf Tooth one? In that case, what are my cassette options? A SRAM cassette should work fine, right?
Would an XT cassette work? Which is better? Is that all I would need? Same is true for new sram. You'll need the adapter or get your drill on like a forumite did a few months ago.
Any brand 11spd cassette should work. A clutch isn't vital in my experience, but if I were racing cross I'd want one. Originally Posted by Britishbane.
I'm not a Shimano user nor am I entirely sure, but I do believe shifter are not compatible with any mtn shimano RD. Pretty sure it should work. Crossing my fingers! Replies: 37 Last Post:AM. Advice on converting to Shimano 10 x 1 drive train By cash in forum Mountain Bikes. Replies: 9 Last Post:PM. By Saab in forum General Discussion. Replies: 3 Last Post:PM. Bookmarks Bookmarks Google Facebook. All times are GMT The time now is PM. All rights reserved.A 1x drivetrain can be 1x9, 1x10 or 1x Another thing to not worry about is shifting and chain line, with only a rear derailleur you can use the full range of your gears without having to shift up or down on your front chainring.
Doing away with front derailleur is just one less thing to go wrong on your ride. In this How To we will be looking at how to convert your bike to to a 1 x drivetrain. This guide can be used on your road bike, cycrocross bike, and mountain bike.1x11 XT M8000 Upgrade / Install, Ride Impressions: i-Spec II, 11-42t, GS RD
I have chosen to convert my 3x9 bike to a 1x10 so I have got myself a few new parts, rear derailler, shifters, cassette and chainring. If you already have a clutch type rear derailler and happy with the number of gears on your rear derailleur then all you need for this conversion is just the single chainring.
If your rear derailleur already have a clutch mechanism and you are happy with the amount of cogs on your casette then you DO NOT have to cut your chain, just drop your chain off the chainring and rest it on your bottom bracket.
I will be replacing chain and cassette so I will be cutting the chain. Use a hex key to dissconnect your front derailleur cable from the front derailleur then remove the clamp bolt on your front derailleur. You may need to give it a gentle tap to remove the derailleur from your bike if this is the first time you are trying to remove it. Use a hex key to loosen the crank arm bolt on the non drive side and remove your cranks from the bike, more details on removing crank arm here.
Once you have remove your cranks, use a hex key to loosen the bolts that holds down your chainring, start with the smallest one first. You will need to remove all the chainrings. Before Installing your new chainring, it is a good idea to clean your old parts.
Start by cleaning your crank arm with some degreaser, spray it all over your crank and use an old toothbrush to work in the degreaser then wash it off with water. You can also give your bottom bracket wipe down and add on some new waterproff grease. I have chosen the Absulute Black Narrow Wide chainring. This one is an oval chainring, it is suspose to be assisting you in the climbs, I will do a review of this chainring seperately. If you have a tripple chainring crank you will have to mount your single chainring on the middle position.
A new chainring bolt may be needed as your old bolt could be too long, you can use washers if you do not wish to purchase a new set of chainring bolts. It is a good idea to apply some grease to the thread of the chainring bolt and around the area where the chainring make contact with the crank arm, this will prevent creaking noise later on.
Tighting your chainring bolt to the recommended torque setting. Absolute Black recommends 5Nm. Once the chainring is installed on your crank, re-install your crank to your bike, more details on this step can be found in my previous post here. Start from the derailleur, push your shift cable through the cable housing unitl your shift cable exits the cable housing near the shifters.
Once the shift cable has been removed the cable housing can easily be removed from your bike. Loosen the bolt that holds your shifter to your handle bars, you may need to remove your handle bar grips and other control instruments before you can remove the shifters. If you are not replacing your rear derailleur you are done here, go out and test ride your bike.
Disconnect the gear cable from your rear derailleur and then remove the rear derailleur from the rear derailleur hanger. Once the rear derailleur is removed, follow the same instruction on step 5 and remove the shift cable and shifters.Jump to content.
Posted 09 April - So at the least you'll need shifter Cassette chain chainring. Not even chainring.
Convert 3x8 shimano alivio to 1x11 shimano xt
All you need if you already have a narrow wide ring is cassette RD shifter and chain. If you go Shimano or sunrace for the cassette you will be able to use your existing free hub body. If you want so. You can use your existing crank. You can use your existing chainring. You just need what I've highlighted above.
Unless your existing chainring is toast. Oh yeah I forgot the rear mech is also quite important. Currently run 1x What must all be changed for a 1x11 conversion. I would assume, rear deraileur, cluster, chain, front chain ring, cranks and then shifter. Must the rar hub also be changed. I wish I had just bought a 1X10 Sunrace cassette. I am not sure which system you current have, but I would seriously advise you to feel a shimano 1X11 system before buying. It is common complaint or recommendation.
Some guys like the 'crispness' as they call it, while many think it is clunky and dislike it. That Shimano cassette is not the greatest due to the massive jump between the two large cogs. If you are only going to have and if you have long- or medium- cage 1X10 systemwhy not just change the cassette instead of the whole palava? Posted 10 April - I have walked around a few shops and felt the shift difference between SLX M and XT M and the XT definately feels more clunky, especially on downshifts with and without the clutch engaged I suppose it depends on what you prefer I suppose the difference is where you guys feel the shifts are clunky I see them as a solid engagement.
No farting around with has it shifted or not. The shifts were very "vague" in my opinion.